
Arrive in Port Blair | A palm-lined cove and the story of the islands
Your holiday begins before you land. As the plane banks over the Andaman Sea, the window fills with turquoise water, coral reefs showing as pale patches beneath the surface, and small islands covered in forest right to the shoreline. On a clear morning, you can even pick out the islands you'll be visiting later in the week: the harbour islands of Ross and North Bay just off Port Blair, and further east, the long green shapes of Havelock and Neil.
You step out of Veer Savarkar International Airport into warm island air, and our representative is waiting outside with your name. A private air-conditioned car takes you the short distance to your hotel in Port Blair, now officially called Sri Vijaya Puram. This will be your base for three of your five nights, so it's worth getting to know the town a little. Port Blair spreads over a series of green hills around a deep natural harbour, and its streets wind up and down past colourful houses, government offices built in the old colonial style, busy markets and small temples, churches, gurdwaras and mosques that reflect the many communities who have made their home here. Settle in, freshen up and let the slower rhythm of island life take over.
The town is named after Archibald Blair, a British naval officer who surveyed the islands in the 18th century, while its new name, Sri Vijaya Puram, adopted in 2024, honours the islands' place in India's freedom struggle. In 1943, during the Second World War, Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose raised the Indian tricolour here, at a ceremony in Port Blair, the first time it flew over Indian soil freed from British rule. It's a town with a long and layered history, and over the next few days, you'll discover much of it.
In the afternoon, you drive along the coast to Corbyn's Cove, about 7 kilometres from the town. The road follows the shoreline, with the sea glittering on one side and forest on the other, and passes old Japanese bunkers from the Second World War, half-hidden among the trees. Then the beach appears: coconut palms leaning over a curve of golden sand, fishing boats bobbing offshore, and warm, calm water. Walk barefoot along the waterline, let the children paddle in the shallows, sip a fresh coconut, and feel the city and the flight fall away.
From the beach, you continue to the Cellular Jail, now a National Memorial, where the British held India's freedom fighters in long wings of tiny solitary cells. Built between 1896 and 1906, the jail got its name from its design: 693 individual cells, each one for a single prisoner, arranged in seven wings that spread out from a central tower like the spokes of a wheel. The cells faced the back of the next wing, so that no prisoner could see or talk to another. Prisoners were made to work long hours, pulling oil mills like animals and making rope from coconut fibre, and many did not survive. Walking its corridors and peering into the cells, you feel the weight of what happened here. In the gallery, the names of the prisoners are carved on marble plaques, and a museum displays photographs, letters and the instruments of punishment used by the jailers.
From the top of the central tower, you look out over the harbour to Ross Island, which you'll visit tomorrow, as the evening lights come on. After dark, the Light and Sound Show retells the prisoners' stories in voice, music and light against the walls of the jail itself. As the voices of the freedom fighters fill the night, it's impossible not to be moved. It's a fitting start to your Andaman journey, a reminder that these beautiful islands also have a story that every Indian should know.
Not far from the Cellular Jail, out in the harbour, lies Viper Island, where the British built the first jail for convicts before the Cellular Jail was finished. It was here that Sher Ali, the prisoner who assassinated the Viceroy, Lord Mayo, during his visit to the islands in 1872, was hanged. The story of the islands as a place of exile is long and dark, but it makes the freedom and beauty you'll enjoy over the next few days feel all the more precious.
Back at your hotel, enjoy dinner and an early night. Tomorrow's boat trip across the harbour is one of the highlights of the week, and you'll want to be fresh for a day on and in the water.
Included today: airport pick-up, private air-conditioned car, Corbyn's Cove, Cellular Jail entry and Light and Sound Show tickets.
Good to know: arrival-day breakfast is not included. Cars stop at the jail parking area, about 200 metres' walk from the entrance. The show may be cancelled in heavy rain.



