Hanle, Umling La and Tso Moriri: A Guide to Eastern Ladakh

Eastern Ladakh's Changthang plateau is a land of high grasslands, nomadic herders and remote lakes, and it has become one of the most exciting additions to a Ladakh trip. Hanle offers some of the darkest night skies in Asia, Umling La is a road that climbs to about 5,800 metres, and Tso Moriri is a quiet high-altitude lake ringed by snow peaks.

These places are far from Leh, high and basic, so they need careful planning. This guide explains what to expect.

Hanle is a small village at about 4,300 metres, around 250 to 270 km south-east of Leh. It is home to the Indian Astronomical Observatory, run by the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, and in 2022 the area was declared a dark-sky reserve to protect its skies from light pollution. On a clear, moonless night, the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye, and some homestays offer telescope sessions with trained local 'astronomy ambassadors'. Visit around the new moon for the best views.

Hanle also has a 17th-century monastery on a hill above the village. Stays are in basic hotels, guest houses and homestays, with limited electricity and hot water.

The road over Umling La, built by the Border Roads Organisation, climbs to about 5,800 metres (19,024 feet) between Hanle and Demchok, and is often described as the highest motorable road in the world. It is usually visited on a long day loop from Hanle via Nurbu La, the frontier village of Demchok and Phuti La, taking 10 to 12 hours. Access depends on permission from the authorities on the day and can be restricted at short notice. At this altitude, oxygen levels are about half of those at sea level, so spend only a few minutes at the top and do not attempt it unless you are well acclimatised.

Tso Moriri lies at about 4,500 metres in the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary, around 220 to 240 km from Leh. The lake is about 26 km long and is a protected wetland, home to bar-headed geese and black-necked cranes in summer, and to the Changpa nomads who graze their pashmina goats nearby. The village of Korzok, with its monastery, has guest houses and camps. Tso Moriri is quieter and wilder than Pangong, and colder at night.

Tso Kar is a saltwater lake on the road between Tso Moriri and the Manali–Leh highway, known for its white salt shores, kiangs (wild asses) and birdlife. The nearby Puga valley has geothermal springs and sulphur deposits. Both are usually seen on the way between Tso Moriri and Leh.

The roads to Hanle and Tso Moriri pass through vast open valleys where you may see kiangs (wild asses), marmots, black-necked cranes and herds of pashmina goats with their Changpa herders. Villages are few, and there are long stretches without shops, fuel or mobile signal, so carry water, snacks and warm clothes.

• Acclimatise first: spend at least three or four nights in Leh, Nubra and Pangong before going to Hanle or Tso Moriri.
• Plan two nights in Hanle: it gives you a second chance at clear skies and makes the Umling La day possible.
• Go between June and September, when roads are most reliable.
• Bring warm clothes, a down jacket, a torch and cash; there are no ATMs and little mobile coverage.
• Link it with Pangong: a remote road connects Pangong with Hanle and Tso Moriri via Chushul and Kaksang La.

Our Hanle and Umling La tour combines Nubra, Turtuk, Pangong and two nights in Hanle; our Manali to Leh to Srinagar road trip includes Tso Moriri and Tso Kar.