Ladakh Permit Guide: Inner Line Permit, Protected Areas and Fees

Much of Ladakh lies close to the borders with China and Pakistan, so some areas are 'protected' and visitors need a permit or must pay prescribed fees to enter them. The rules have changed several times in recent years, especially for Indian citizens, which is why there is so much confusion online.

This guide explains which places are covered, what Indian and foreign travellers need, and how permits are arranged. Rules can change at short notice, so we always check the current requirements before your trip.

Permits and fees apply to protected areas including Nubra Valley (beyond Khardung La), Turtuk, Pangong Lake, Tso Moriri, Tso Kar, Hanle, the Dah–Hanu (Aryan Valley) area and some border areas around Kargil. Leh town, Sham Valley, the monasteries along the Indus and the Manali and Srinagar highways do not need one.

Indian citizens no longer face the strict Inner Line Permit rules of the past, but they still need to register for the protected areas and pay environment, wildlife and Red Cross fees. This is done online through the Leh district administration's permit system or through a registered travel agent, and the permit or fee receipt is checked at checkpoints such as South Pullu on the way to Nubra. Carry an original government photo ID (Aadhaar, passport, voter ID or driving licence) and a few photocopies of your permit.

Foreign travellers need a Protected Area Permit for the same areas. It is issued through a registered travel agent, usually for groups of two or more, and is valid for a limited period. Passport and visa copies are required. Some nationalities and holders of diplomatic or official passports need prior clearance from the Ministry of Home Affairs.

• Original photo ID (passport for foreigners)
• Printed copies of the permit or fee receipt, several sets
• Your hotel bookings and itinerary
• Vehicle documents (your driver will carry these)

When you book a Ladakh package with us, our local partner arranges permits and pays the environment, wildlife and Red Cross fees for the places on your itinerary. You only need to send copies of your ID before travel and carry the originals. Special areas such as Umling La and Demchok may need additional permission on the day. See our Hanle and Umling La guide.

If you drive or ride into Ladakh from Manali or Srinagar, you still need permits for the protected areas inside Ladakh, such as Nubra and Pangong. Vehicles registered outside Ladakh may face additional restrictions under local union rules for sightseeing, so check before you plan to use your own vehicle or a rented one. Himachal Pradesh separately requires a permit to visit Rohtang Pass, but not to drive through the Atal Tunnel.

Permits are checked at army and police checkpoints such as South Pullu and North Pullu on the Khardung La road, and on the routes to Pangong, Turtuk, Hanle and Tso Moriri. Keep several copies handy, as some checkpoints keep a copy. Do not photograph army installations or checkpoints.

• Apply for all the areas you might visit, so you can change plans on the road.
• Keep your permit copies handy at checkpoints.
• Respect photography restrictions near army installations and the border.
• Permit rules change from time to time; trust current official information over old blog posts.