Nubra Valley and Turtuk Guide: Hunder Sand Dunes, Diskit and Camps

Nubra Valley, north of Leh over Khardung La, is where the Shyok and Nubra rivers meet in a wide valley of sand dunes, green villages and snow peaks. It is famous for its double-humped Bactrian camels, the giant Buddha at Diskit and, in the far north, the Balti village of Turtuk near the Line of Control.

At about 3,000 to 3,200 metres, most of Nubra is lower than Leh, which makes it a comfortable first night away from the town. Here is what to see and how to plan your visit.

The Leh to Nubra Valley distance is about 120 to 130 km to Diskit or Hunder, a drive of 4 to 5 hours over Khardung La. The road climbs steeply from Leh to the pass, with stops at South Pullu and North Pullu checkpoints, then descends past Khardung village to the Shyok river. From Nubra, the Shyok river road leads to Pangong Lake in 6 to 7 hours. Read more in our Ladakh mountain passes guide.

The sand dunes between Diskit and Hunder are a surprising sight at this altitude. Here you can ride the double-humped Bactrian camels, descendants of the animals used on the old Silk Road caravans. The camel ride is short and paid locally; late afternoon is the best time, with soft light on the dunes. ATV rides are also available.

• Diskit Monastery: the oldest and largest monastery in Nubra, perched on a hill, with a 32-metre statue of Maitreya Buddha facing the valley.
• Sumur and Samstanling Monastery: on the Nubra river side of the valley, with quieter villages and camps.
• Panamik hot springs: natural sulphur springs further up the Nubra river.
• Yarab Tso: a small sacred lake near Sumur, reached by a short walk.

Turtuk is about 80 to 90 km beyond Hunder along the Shyok river. It is a Balti village of stone houses, apricot orchards and streams, with its own language, mosque and food, quite different from Buddhist Ladakh. Turtuk and the nearby villages came under Indian control in 1971 and opened to tourists only in 2010. Beyond Turtuk, the village of Thang is the last on the Indian side of the Line of Control. A day trip from Hunder takes 6 to 7 hours return; you can also stay overnight in a Turtuk homestay. Our Ladakh 6 nights with Turtuk includes this trip.

Hunder and Diskit have the widest choice, from simple guest houses to luxury camps and boutique resorts. Sumur offers quieter camps, and Turtuk has homestays and small guest houses. Most camps have attached bathrooms and limited electricity in the evening. See where to stay in Leh Ladakh.

Nubra is one of the most enjoyable parts of Ladakh for families: the drive is manageable, the valley is lower than Leh, and children love the camels and sand dunes. Keep the stop at Khardung La short, carry warm clothes for the pass, and choose a camp or hotel with attached bathrooms. Our Ladakh family tour includes a night in Nubra.

May to October is the best time, with all camps open and apricots ripening in Turtuk in summer. Nubra can be visited in winter too, but it is very cold, many camps close and Khardung La can be closed after snow.

Spend at least one night, two if you want to visit Turtuk. Carry a warm layer for Khardung La, where it can be freezing even in summer. Permits are needed for Nubra and Turtuk, which we arrange. Dress modestly in Turtuk and ask before photographing people.