
Kochi to Munnar – Climbing into the Ghats
Your driver meets you at Kochi airport or Ernakulam railway station, ready for a week that will take you from the misty mountains of the Western Ghats all the way down to the southern tip of India, where three seas meet. Load your bags into the car and settle in for the first leg of the journey: a drive of about four hours east into the hills to Munnar.
For the first hour or so, the road crosses the flat, green farmland behind the coast. This is Kerala at its most everyday: coconut palms leaning over red-tiled houses, small paddy fields, roadside stalls selling bananas in great green and yellow bunches, schoolchildren in neat uniforms, and churches, temples and mosques sharing the same few hundred metres of road. Around Kothamangalam, the land begins to rise, and rubber plantations close in on both sides, with their tall, slender trees planted in long, shady rows. At Neriamangalam, you cross the Periyar River on an old stone arch bridge, and from here the climb begins in earnest.
The road twists and turns up through thick forest and spice country, with sharp hairpin bends and sudden views back down over the plains. Ask your driver to stop at the waterfalls along the way. Cheeyappara falls down a long, rocky slope in a series of steps right beside the road, and Valara, a little further on, drops into a deep forested valley. In the weeks after the monsoon, both are thundering torrents; in the dry season, they become gentler, lacy streams, but the setting is always lovely. Monkeys often wait hopefully on the parapets, so keep your snacks out of sight.
Next, stop at one of the spice plantations near Adimali or Pallivasal. A guide will walk you through the garden and show you how Kerala's famous spices grow: pepper vines climbing up tall trees, cardamom plants with their pods hidden at the base of the stems, cinnamon trees whose bark is peeled and rolled, cloves, nutmeg with its bright red mace, vanilla orchids, cocoa pods and coffee. Rub a leaf of allspice between your fingers and smell it, taste a fresh peppercorn, and hear how these spices brought Roman, Arab, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch and British traders to the Malabar Coast. There's usually a small shop where you can buy spices fresh from the garden.
The last stretch of road climbs into Munnar's tea country, and it's a sight you won't forget. The hills are covered from top to bottom with tea bushes, clipped into neat rows that follow the contours of the slopes like the lines of a fingerprint. Silver oak and eucalyptus trees rise above them, giving shade, and here and there, a white tea factory or a cluster of workers' homes sits in a fold of the hills. Mist drifts over the higher ridges, and the air smells of damp earth and eucalyptus.
Check in to your hotel by mid-afternoon. Munnar sits at about 1,600 metres, where three rivers, the Muthirappuzha, Nallathanni and Kundala, meet, and the cool air is a welcome change after the warmth of the coast. Spend the rest of the afternoon resting, or take a short walk into town to explore the small market, where stalls sell tea, cardamom, homemade chocolates, fruit and vegetables grown in the hills.
In the evening, as the temperature drops, put on a light jacket and enjoy a hot cup of Munnar tea on your balcony or terrace, watching the mist settle over the valleys and the lights of the estate villages come on one by one. Dinner is at your hotel or one of the restaurants in town, many of which serve Kerala specialities such as appam with vegetable or chicken stew, fish moilee, a mild curry with coconut milk, and the rich, spicy dishes of the hill country, along with North Indian and Chinese food.
Munnar's climate makes it a pleasure to visit through most of the year. From September to May, the days are mild and sunny and the evenings cool, while December and January can be properly cold at night, with frost on the higher estates. The monsoon months from June to August bring heavy rain and mist, and the hills turn a vivid green. Whenever you visit, bring a warm layer, comfortable walking shoes and a light raincoat or umbrella. Sleep well: tomorrow you'll be up early to meet the mountain goats.
Included today: pick-up at Kochi airport or railway station, private car to Munnar with stops at the waterfalls and a spice garden, hotel in Munnar.
Good to know: drive about 4 hours, plus stops. The hill road has many bends; if you're prone to motion sickness, sit in front and take something before you set off. Breakfast on arrival day and lunch on the way aren't included.





