
Kochi to Munnar – Up into the Western Ghats
Welcome to Kerala. Your driver meets you at Kochi airport or Ernakulam railway station, helps you with your bags, and you set off east towards the hills on a journey of about four hours that takes you from the warm, green coast to the cool tea country of Munnar. Over the next eight days, you'll see two very different hill stations, the backwaters and the beach, and this first drive is a wonderful introduction to the variety of Kerala's landscapes.
The first part of the journey crosses the busy plains east of Kochi, through Aluva and Perumbavoor and past fields of paddy, bananas and tapioca, coconut groves and rubber plantations. Life here moves at a brisk pace: lorries loaded with timber and coconuts, school buses painted in bright colours, cyclists balancing great bunches of bananas, and roadside stalls selling tender coconuts, jackfruit and tea. Past the town of Kothamangalam, the road begins to climb, and the landscape changes. The plantations of rubber give way to thick forest and then to cardamom, which grows in the shade of tall trees, and finally, as you climb higher, to tea.
At Neriamangalam, you cross the Periyar, Kerala's longest river, on a graceful stone bridge with tall arches, built in the 1930s by the rulers of Travancore and still in use today. From here, the road winds steeply up into the Western Ghats in a series of hairpin bends, with the forest closing in on both sides and occasional glimpses back down over the plains.
Stop at the Cheeyappara waterfall, where the water tumbles down a rocky hillside in seven tiers right beside the road, and at the Valara falls, a short distance further on, which plunge into a deep, wooded gorge. Both are at their most impressive during and after the monsoon, between June and December, but they're lovely at any time of year. Bonnet macaques often gather by the roadside here, so keep your food out of sight.
Further up, stop at a spice garden, where a local guide will lead you along shaded paths and show you the spices that made Kerala famous: black pepper vines climbing up tall trees, cardamom with its pods hidden at the base of the plant, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg with its scarlet mace, allspice, vanilla, cocoa and coffee. Crush a leaf between your fingers to release its fragrance, and listen to the stories of the merchants from Rome, Arabia, China, Portugal, Holland and Britain who came to Kerala in search of these spices. The garden shop is a good place to buy fresh spices to take home.
Have lunch on the way at one of the restaurants around Adimali, a busy market town in the hills, where you can try a Kerala meal of rice with fish curry, vegetable thoran and sambar, or flaky porotta with a spicy curry.
As you climb the last stretch to Munnar, the first tea estates appear on the slopes around you, and soon the whole landscape is covered in tea. The bushes are planted in tidy rows that follow the curves of the hills, trimmed to waist height so that the pickers can reach the tender young leaves, and shaded by tall silver oaks. Here and there, a white-walled tea factory sits in a valley, and the neat lines of the workers' homes climb the slopes. The air is cool and fresh, scented with eucalyptus and damp earth, and mist often drifts across the higher ridges.
You reach Munnar in the afternoon, with time to rest and enjoy the cool air. Munnar sits at about 1,600 metres, at the meeting point of three mountain rivers, and it was developed by British planters in the late 19th century as the centre of a great tea-growing region known as the High Ranges. Spend the rest of the afternoon relaxing at your hotel, perhaps with a cup of fresh tea on your balcony, looking out over the hills as the mist rolls in, or take a short walk into town to explore the small market.
In the evening, the temperature drops and the hills grow quiet. Wrap up in a warm layer and enjoy dinner at your hotel, perhaps a Kerala chicken or vegetable stew with soft appam, or a bowl of hot soup. Then get a good night's sleep: tomorrow begins early at Eravikulam, and the cool mountain air makes for deep, restful sleep.
Welcome to the hills.
Over the coming week, you'll see why so many travellers fall in love with Kerala on their very first day in the hills.
Included today: pick-up at Kochi airport or railway station, private car to Munnar with stops at the waterfalls and a spice garden, hotel in Munnar.
Good to know: drive about 4 hours, plus stops. Lunch is at your own cost, and breakfast on arrival day isn't included. Evenings in Munnar can be cool, so keep a warm layer handy.






