
Kochi to Munnar – Into the Tea Hills
A week in Kerala is the ideal amount of time to see the state properly: long enough for the hills, the forests and the backwaters, and still relaxed enough to enjoy them. Your journey begins at Kochi airport or Ernakulam railway station, where your driver picks you up in a private air-conditioned car for the drive east into the Western Ghats.
As you leave Kochi, take in the first sights of everyday Kerala. Houses painted in bright pinks, blues and yellows sit among coconut palms and banana trees, many with neat gardens and wide verandas. Every few hundred metres there's a little tea shop, where men sit on benches reading the morning paper over glasses of milky tea, and roadside stalls sell bunches of bananas, tender coconuts, jackfruit and pineapples. Kerala is famous for its high levels of literacy and health, and its towns feel calm and orderly, with schools, libraries, hospitals and reading rooms everywhere.
Within a couple of hours the road begins to climb through rubber and cardamom plantations. The rubber trees, planted in long, straight rows, have spiral cuts in their bark and small cups or coconut shells tied beneath to catch the white latex, which is collected each morning and pressed into sheets that you'll see drying on racks outside village houses. Higher up, the rubber gives way to cardamom and pepper, grown under the shade of tall forest trees, and the air turns cool and fresh.
Break the journey at Cheeyappara and Valara, two waterfalls right beside the highway. Cheeyappara drops down a rocky hillside in seven separate steps, white water foaming over dark rock, while Valara, a short drive on, plunges into a deep, forested gorge. They're at their most powerful after the monsoon, and the spray cools the air around them. Stop too at a spice garden where you can see pepper vines and cardamom up close, along with cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, all-spice, coffee and vanilla. Your guide will explain how each one is grown and used, both in Kerala's kitchens and in Ayurvedic medicine, and you can buy fresh spices to take home.
The first tea estates appear by mid-afternoon, and they take your breath away. The hills are covered from top to bottom with tea bushes, trimmed into rounded, waist-high rows that follow the contours of the slopes like ripples on a green sea. Tea pickers move slowly along the rows, plucking the youngest leaves by hand and tossing them into baskets or sacks on their backs, and the estates are dotted with factories, workers' houses, small temples and schools.
You check in at Munnar with the evening free. Munnar lies about 1,600 metres above sea level, where three mountain streams meet, and it was developed by British planters in the late 19th century as the centre of a vast tea-growing area. The climate is cool all year, with crisp mornings and chilly evenings, especially in winter, so you'll want a jacket. Spend the evening relaxing at your hotel, enjoying a cup of fresh Munnar tea and the quiet of the hills.
Kerala's name is often said to come from "kera", the Malayalam word for coconut palm, and once you see the endless palms lining every road, canal and garden, it's easy to believe. The state sits between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea, a long, narrow strip of land with a remarkable variety of landscapes: high mountains and tea gardens, dense forests and wildlife reserves, a maze of backwaters, and hundreds of kilometres of beaches. Over the next seven days, you'll see almost all of them.
Munnar has a gentle, unhurried feel. Its small town centre has a busy market, where stalls sell vegetables, fruit, spices and tea, and a few old churches and buildings from the planters' days. But most visitors stay in the hotels and resorts scattered across the hills around the town, many with balconies looking out over the tea gardens and valleys. Wake early tomorrow if you can: the first light over the hills, with mist filling the valleys below, is one of the most beautiful sights in Kerala.
For dinner tonight, try one of Kerala's comfort foods: a plate of hot Malabar parottas, flaky layered flatbreads, with a spicy chicken or vegetable curry, or a bowl of rice with fish curry and thoran.
Then settle in for a good night's sleep in the cool mountain air, ready for a full day of sightseeing tomorrow.
Welcome to the hills.
Included today: pick-up at Kochi airport or railway station, private car to Munnar with stops at Cheeyappara and Valara waterfalls and a spice garden, hotel in Munnar.
Good to know: drive about 4 hours. Breakfast on arrival day isn't included. The road has many bends; if you're prone to motion sickness, sit in front and carry something for it.





