
Kochi to Munnar – Waterfalls on the Way Up
Welcome to Kerala. Your driver collects you at Kochi airport or Ernakulam railway station and, after a warm welcome, you set off inland towards the Western Ghats in a private air-conditioned car. With six days ahead, this is a trip with room to breathe: three nights in the tea hills, a day in the forests of Thekkady and a night on the backwaters, all at an easy pace.
Kochi itself is Kerala's busiest city, a mix of old and new, with modern apartment towers and shopping malls rising alongside centuries-old churches, temples and spice warehouses. As you head east, the city soon gives way to the green countryside of central Kerala. Every village seems to merge into the next, with houses set among coconut palms, banana plants and jackfruit trees, and gardens bright with hibiscus and bougainvillea. Kerala's villages feel more like one long, green, gently busy garden than separate settlements, and the road is always lively with buses, scooters, auto-rickshaws and people on their way to work, school or market.
After a couple of hours, the plains soon give way to rubber estates, then cardamom forest, then the first neat rows of tea. Rubber was introduced to Kerala by the British in the early 20th century, and today the state grows most of India's natural rubber; you'll see the tall, straight trees in neat rows, each with a spiral cut in its bark and a small cup to collect the milky latex. As the road climbs past Adimali, the rubber gives way to cardamom and pepper, grown in the cool shade of the forest, and the air becomes noticeably fresher.
Stop at Cheeyappara and Valara, two waterfalls that drop right beside the road. Cheeyappara tumbles down a rocky cliff in a series of seven steps, white water against black rock and green forest, and it's at its most spectacular after the monsoon, from August to December. Valara, a little further up, falls into a deep forested gorge and can be seen from viewpoints along the highway. Both are favourite stops for travellers, with stalls selling tea, coconut water, roasted corn and freshly cut pineapple sprinkled with salt and chilli.
You'll also stop at a spice garden to see pepper, cardamom and cloves growing. Kerala has been famous for its spices for more than two thousand years: Roman coins have been found along this coast, left by traders who came for pepper, and it was the search for Kerala's spices that brought Vasco da Gama to India in 1498. In the garden, a guide shows you how each plant grows, lets you smell the leaves and bark, and explains which spices are used in Kerala's cooking and in Ayurvedic medicine.
Then the tea begins. As you near Munnar, the hills are covered in tea bushes from the valley floors to the ridgetops, clipped into soft, rounded rows that follow every curve of the land, with paths winding between them and silver oaks standing above. It's one of the most beautiful agricultural landscapes in the world, and it changes with the light: bright green in the morning sun, silvery under passing clouds, and almost blue as evening falls.
You check in at Munnar by mid-afternoon, with the evening free to settle in. Munnar is your base for the next three nights, so unpack, relax and enjoy the cool air. The town lies at about 1,600 metres, and while the days are pleasantly warm, the evenings can be chilly, especially in winter, when you may want a fire or a warm blanket. Take a short walk around your hotel, enjoy a cup of fresh Munnar tea, and watch the mist settle into the valleys as the sun goes down.
If you're arriving on an early flight, you can stop for breakfast on the way at one of the busy roadside restaurants, where hot appams, puttu, idlis and dosas are served with coconut chutney and sambar, washed down with strong, sweet Kerala coffee. It's the perfect first taste of the state.
Munnar's evenings are quiet and restful. There's little nightlife, and that's part of the charm: most visitors simply enjoy a good dinner, a walk under the stars and an early night, ready for an early start in the clear morning air. If you'd like to shop, the little town centre has stalls selling tea, cardamom, homemade chocolates, eucalyptus oil and warm shawls, and it's lively until around 8 or 9 in the evening.
Tonight, rest well: tomorrow is a full day of sightseeing in the hills.
Included today: pick-up at Kochi airport or railway station, private car to Munnar with stops at Cheeyappara and Valara waterfalls and a spice garden, hotel in Munnar.
Good to know: drive about 4 hours. Breakfast on arrival day isn't included. Monkeys at the waterfalls can snatch food, so keep snacks out of sight.



