
Kochi to Athirapilly Falls
Your Kerala journey begins with the most spectacular waterfall in the state. Your driver meets you at Kochi airport or Ernakulam railway station and drives about two hours north-east to Athirapilly, through the green farmland and small towns of central Kerala, past paddy fields, coconut groves, nutmeg and rubber plantations, and into the foothills of the Western Ghats, where the forest thickens and the air turns cooler and fresher.
Here the Chalakudy River drops about 24 metres over a wide rock face into the forest below, often called the Niagara of India. You hear the falls long before you see them, a deep, steady roar that grows louder as you walk along the path from the entrance. Then, suddenly, the view opens up: a broad curtain of white water pouring over a black rock ledge, framed by thick green forest, with clouds of spray rising from the pool below and rainbows dancing in the mist on sunny afternoons. In the monsoon and the months just after, from June to December, the falls are at their most powerful, spreading across the whole rock face; in the dry season, the river divides into several separate streams, still beautiful as they tumble over the rocks.
Walk down the path towards the base for the full force of the falls. The path winds down through the forest, with steps in places, and takes about fifteen minutes each way. At the bottom, you can stand on the rocks near the pool and look up at the full height of the falls, with the spray cooling your face and the thunder of the water filling the air. It's a breathtaking sight, and it's easy to see why filmmakers love it: the falls have appeared in many Indian films, including the famous waterfall scenes in Baahubali.
Then drive a few kilometres upstream to the Vazhachal falls, which tumble over a series of rocks. Vazhachal is gentler and wider than Athirapilly, a broad, sloping cascade where the river rushes and foams over wide shelves of rock, surrounded by forest. It's a peaceful place to sit and watch the water, and the forest around it is alive with birds. On the way, look out for the small Charpa falls, which tumble right beside the road during and after the monsoon.
The forests around Athirapilly, part of the Vazhachal forest division, are among the richest in Kerala. They're home to elephants, sambar deer, lion-tailed macaques, Nilgiri langurs and all four species of hornbill found in South India, including the great hornbill, with its enormous yellow casque, and birdwatchers come from far and wide to see them. The Chalakudy River is also home to many fish found nowhere else, and the Kadar people, a forest community who have lived here for centuries, still gather honey and forest produce in the hills.
The falls close to visitors in the late afternoon, so you return to Kochi for the night. As you drive back, the light softens over the paddy fields and palms, and you reach your hotel in time to relax and enjoy dinner. Kochi is Kerala's largest city, a lively mix of old and new, and if you have energy, a stroll along Marine Drive, Ernakulam's waterfront promenade, is a pleasant way to spend the evening, with views across the harbour as the lights come on.
Athirapilly is also part of the cultural heartland of Kerala. The district you're in, Thrissur, is known as the cultural capital of the state, home to the Kerala Kalamandalam, the famous academy of Kathakali and other classical arts, and to the Thrissur Pooram, a spectacular temple festival held every April or May, when dozens of elephants decked in golden headdresses parade before huge crowds to the thunder of drums and fireworks.
If you're visiting during or just after the monsoon, the drive itself is beautiful, with the paddy fields flooded and bright green and every stream running full. In the dry months, the forest is quieter and it's easier to walk down to the base of the falls. Whenever you come, Athirapilly is one of the great natural sights of South India, and a dramatic start to your Kerala holiday.
Get a good night's rest in Kochi: tomorrow you head up into the hills, and the first tea gardens of Munnar are only a few hours away.
Welcome to Kerala; your adventure has begun.
Included today: pick-up at Kochi airport or railway station, private car to Athirapilly and Vazhachal falls and back to Kochi, hotel in Kochi.
Good to know: about 4 hours of driving in total. Entry tickets at the falls are paid locally, and the falls usually close around 5 PM. The path to the base can be slippery, so wear shoes with a good grip; swimming isn't allowed. Breakfast on arrival day isn't included.




