
Kochi to Munnar – Waterfalls and Spice Gardens
This four-day Munnar and Alleppey tour shows you Kerala's two most famous landscapes, the cool green tea hills and the calm palm-fringed backwaters, at an easy pace. Your driver meets you at Kochi airport or Ernakulam railway station, whatever time your flight or train arrives in the morning, and you head east into the hills in a private air-conditioned car.
As the city falls behind, you pass through the gentle green countryside of central Kerala: houses with red-tiled roofs set among coconut palms, banana groves and jackfruit trees; churches, temples and mosques sitting side by side; and busy little towns where tea shops, bakeries and fruit stalls line the road. Kerala's bakeries are famous, so if you're hungry, stop for a plum cake, a banana puffs or a crisp, spicy samosa with a glass of sweet, milky tea.
The road winds up past rubber and cardamom plantations to Cheeyappara and Valara, two waterfalls that tumble down beside the highway. Cheeyappara falls in seven steps down a rocky hillside, white water against dark stone and green forest, and Valara drops into a deep, wooded gorge just a few kilometres further on. They're at their fullest from August to December, after the monsoon, and the spray cools the air. Monkeys often gather by the road hoping for a snack, so keep food out of sight. It's a lovely place for your first photographs in the hills.
Stop at a spice garden to see how pepper, cardamom and vanilla grow, then continue into the tea country. A guide leads you through the garden, showing you black pepper vines climbing up the trunks of trees, the long leaves of cardamom with its small green pods growing near the ground, and the twisting vines of vanilla, an orchid whose flowers have to be pollinated by hand. You'll also see cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, coffee and all-spice, and learn how Kerala's spices drew traders from Rome, Arabia, China and Europe to this coast for more than two thousand years. The garden shop is a good place to buy fresh spices at fair prices.
Then the tea begins. As the road climbs higher, the hills are covered from top to bottom in tea bushes, trimmed into soft, rounded rows that follow the curves of the slopes, with narrow paths winding between them and tall silver oaks planted for shade. It's one of the most beautiful landscapes in India, and it changes constantly with the light and the clouds.
You reach Munnar in the afternoon, with the evening free. Munnar lies about 1,600 metres above sea level, where three mountain streams meet, and its name means "three rivers" in Malayalam. British planters developed it as the heart of a great tea-growing region in the late 19th century, and it's been a favourite hill station ever since, loved for its cool climate, its rolling tea gardens and its peaceful atmosphere. Settle in, enjoy a cup of fresh Munnar tea on your balcony, and watch the mist roll into the valleys as evening falls.
Munnar's evenings are quiet and restful, and that's a big part of its charm. If you'd like to go out, the little town centre has a busy market, shops selling tea, cardamom, homemade chocolates and warm shawls, and simple restaurants serving Kerala and North Indian food; try a plate of Malabar parotta with a spicy curry or appam with vegetable stew. Otherwise, enjoy dinner at your hotel and an early night, ready for an early start at Eravikulam tomorrow.
The estates around Munnar are home to thousands of families, many of them descended from workers who came from Tamil Nadu generations ago to work in the tea gardens. You'll see their neat rows of houses, small temples decorated with marigolds and schools tucked among the tea, and hear Tamil spoken alongside Malayalam in the town. Most of the estates are now run by a company in which the workers themselves are shareholders, an unusual arrangement that's a source of local pride.
If you wake early tomorrow, step out onto your balcony at dawn: the valleys are often filled with a sea of white mist, with the tops of the hills rising above it like islands, glowing gold as the sun rises.
Get a good night's sleep tonight: tomorrow is a full day of sightseeing in the hills, starting early at Eravikulam.
Keep a light jacket handy, as the temperature drops quickly once the sun goes down in the hills.
Welcome to the tea hills of Kerala.
Included today: pick-up at Kochi airport or railway station, private car to Munnar with stops at Cheeyappara and Valara waterfalls and a spice garden, hotel in Munnar.
Good to know: drive about 4 hours. Breakfast on arrival day isn't included. Evenings in Munnar can be cold from November to February, so pack a warm layer.


