
Kochi to Alleppey – Straight onto the Water
Your Kerala holiday begins on the backwaters, the experience most travellers dream of before they arrive. Your driver meets you at Kochi airport or Ernakulam railway station and drives you south to Alleppey, now officially called Alappuzha, about two hours away. As the car leaves the city behind, Kerala's green, watery world opens up: coconut palms crowd the roadside, canals and rivers glint between the trees, and the road passes churches, temples and mosques, often within sight of one another, a reminder of how many faiths have lived peacefully side by side here for centuries.
Around noon you board your private houseboat and leave the roads behind. Your kettuvallam is a traditional Kerala rice barge transformed into a floating home, with a curved roof of woven bamboo and palm leaves, polished wooden floors, a comfortable bedroom with an attached bathroom, a sitting area and an open deck at the front with chairs and a dining table. The crew, usually a captain, a cook and a deckhand, welcomes you on board with a cool drink and shows you around, and then the boat slips away from the jetty into the backwaters.
Through the afternoon you cruise along palm-lined canals and across wide lakes, passing paddy fields, village churches and fishermen in small canoes, while the crew cooks a Kerala lunch on board. The backwaters are a world where water is the main road. Children travel to school by ferry, the postman delivers letters by boat, and village shops sell their goods from the water's edge. You'll see women washing clothes on stone steps, men casting circular nets from narrow canoes, and flocks of ducks herded along the canals by farmers with long poles. In the open lakes, the water stretches wide and silver to a far green shore, and the breeze is fresh and cool.
Lunch is a feast of home-style Kerala cooking: steaming red rice, a fish curry made with coconut milk and kudampuli, the smoky sour fruit that gives Kerala fish curry its distinctive flavour, crisp fried fish, vegetable thoran, sambar, pappadam and pickles. In the late afternoon, enjoy tea and banana fritters on deck as the boat glides on.
This part of Kerala, known as Kuttanad, is one of the most remarkable farming landscapes in the world. Much of it lies one to two metres below sea level, and farmers have grown rice here for generations in fields reclaimed from Vembanad Lake, protected by earthen dykes and drained by pumps. The United Nations has recognised it as a globally important agricultural heritage system. Depending on the season, you'll see the paddy fields flooded and newly planted, bright green with young rice, or golden and ready for harvest.
The boat moors for the night at about 5:30 PM, as local rules require, and dinner is served on deck. As the sun sets over the paddy fields, the sky turns orange, pink and violet, and the palms stand in silhouette against it, their reflections shimmering in the still water. After dark, the backwaters grow quiet and peaceful, with only the chorus of frogs and crickets and the occasional splash of a fish. Sit out on deck and look up at the stars, bright and clear far from the lights of the city.
Houseboats have become one of the most famous symbols of Kerala, and there's a good reason why. Nowhere else in India can you spend a night drifting through such a peaceful, green, watery world, with your own crew to cook and care for you, and nothing to do but watch the scenery and relax. Many travellers say it's the most restful night of their whole holiday.
The backwaters are also wonderful for birdwatching. Look out for several kinds of kingfisher, from the tiny, brilliant blue common kingfisher to the large stork-billed kingfisher, as well as darters with their long snake-like necks, purple herons standing perfectly still in the reeds, little cormorants drying their wings, and Brahminy kites circling overhead, their chestnut-and-white plumage shining in the sun. In the evening, flocks of egrets fly in to roost in the trees, filling the sky with white.
If you'd like, your crew can stop at a village so you can stretch your legs along the narrow paths between the paddy fields, or buy fresh fish, prawns or crab from local fishermen to cook for your dinner, at a small extra cost.
Wake early tomorrow if you can: dawn on the backwaters, with mist on the water and the villages slowly coming to life, is one of the most beautiful moments of the whole trip.
Included today: pick-up at Kochi airport or railway station, private car to Alleppey, private houseboat with lunch and dinner on board.
Good to know: drive about 2 hours. Bedrooms are air-conditioned at night. See our Alleppey houseboat packages to compare boats.



