
Guruvayur Darshan from Kochi
Your Kerala journey begins with a blessing. Your driver meets you at Kochi airport or Ernakulam railway station and drives you north to Guruvayur, about two and a half hours away, through the green countryside of central Kerala: coconut groves, paddy fields, small towns with tiled-roof houses and busy markets, and temples, churches and mosques side by side along the road. As you approach Guruvayur, the roads fill with pilgrims, many of them families who have travelled from across India, and stalls selling flowers, lamps, sandalwood paste and devotional pictures line the streets.
The Sri Krishna Temple, often called the Dwarka of the South, draws pilgrims from across India, and the temple town buzzes with devotion from early morning. It's one of the most important Krishna temples in the country, also known as Bhuloka Vaikuntham, the abode of Vishnu on earth. According to tradition, the idol of Guruvayurappan, Krishna in his four-armed form, was worshipped by Krishna himself in Dwarka, and after Dwarka was swallowed by the sea, it was carried here by Guru, the teacher of the gods, and Vayu, the god of the wind, which is how the town got its name. The temple's rituals follow traditions laid down centuries ago by the great teacher Adi Shankaracharya, and the day begins long before dawn, at 3 AM, with the first darshan of the deity.
Join the darshan in the traditional dress the temple requires: for men, a mundu, the white Kerala wrap, without a shirt, and for women, a saree, or a salwar kameez with a long skirt-like dupatta, depending on current rules. Entry to the temple is for Hindus only. Inside, the atmosphere is deeply devotional: the sound of conch shells and drums, the glow of hundreds of oil lamps on the great lamp tower, the scent of sandalwood and jasmine, and the chanting of thousands of devotees. Many families come here to perform a thulabharam, a traditional offering in which a devotee is weighed on a great scale against bananas, sugar, coconuts or other goods, which are then given to the temple. Guruvayur is also one of the most popular wedding venues in Kerala, and on auspicious days, hundreds of couples are married in quick succession in front of the temple, a joyful, colourful sight.
The temple is also closely linked to Kerala's arts and literature. In the 16th century, the poet Melpathur Narayana Bhattathiri composed the Narayaneeyam, a famous Sanskrit hymn to Krishna, here, and the classical dance-drama Krishnanattam was created for the temple. During the festival of Guruvayur Ekadasi in November or December, the town fills with music, with great Carnatic music concerts held in honour of Krishna.
Afterwards, visit Punnathur Kotta, an old palace compound that is home to dozens of temple elephants, which you can watch from a distance. Elephants have been offered to Guruvayur temple by devotees for generations, and the temple now looks after one of the largest herds of captive elephants in the world. At Punnathur Kotta, also known as Anakotta, the elephant fort, you can see the great animals being bathed, fed and cared for by their mahouts under the shade of tall trees. The most famous of them, Guruvayur Keshavan, was so loved by devotees that a statue was raised in his memory.
Before leaving Guruvayur, many pilgrims also visit the Mammiyur Mahadeva Temple, a short walk away. Tradition holds that a visit to Guruvayur is complete only after praying at Mammiyur, where Shiva is worshipped, and the smaller, quieter temple is a peaceful contrast to the crowds at the main shrine. For lunch, try a simple vegetarian meal at one of the restaurants near the temple, served on a banana leaf: rice, sambar, rasam, avial (mixed vegetables in coconut and yogurt), thoran (vegetables stir-fried with grated coconut), crisp pappadam, pickles and a sweet payasam to finish. It's a good introduction to the food you'll enjoy all week.
Drive back to Kochi in the afternoon for the night. As the light softens over the paddy fields and palms, you'll reach your hotel in time to relax. If you have energy, take a stroll along Marine Drive, Ernakulam's waterfront promenade, as the lights of the harbour come on.
On the way back, the road passes through Thrissur district, the cultural heart of Kerala, home to the great Vadakkunnathan Temple and the spectacular Thrissur Pooram festival in April or May, when caparisoned elephants and hundreds of drummers fill the temple grounds. Even if you don't stop, your driver will happily point out the landmarks and tell you about life in this part of Kerala.
Included today: pick-up at Kochi airport or railway station, private car to Guruvayur and back to Kochi, hotel in Kochi.
Good to know: about 5 hours of driving in total. Entry to the Sri Krishna Temple is for Hindus only, and the dress code is strictly followed. Queues can be long on weekends, holidays and auspicious days, and the temple closes for some hours in the afternoon. Mobile phones and cameras aren't allowed inside. Breakfast on arrival day isn't included.





