Zanskar Valley and Ladakh Treks: Phuktal, Chadar and Markha Valley

For travellers who want to go beyond the classic Leh–Nubra–Pangong circuit, Zanskar and Ladakh's trekking routes offer some of the most remote and rewarding experiences in the Himalaya: cliffside monasteries, frozen rivers, high passes and villages where life still follows the seasons.

This guide introduces Zanskar and the best-known treks, with the season and difficulty of each. All of them need good fitness, acclimatisation and an experienced local team.

Zanskar lies south of Kargil, separated from the rest of Ladakh by high mountains. The usual road route goes from Kargil through the Suru valley, past the peaks of Nun and Kun, over Pensi La and past the Drang-Drung glacier to Padum, the main town, about 230 km and a full day's drive. A newer road linking Zanskar directly with Leh is being developed.

Highlights include Karsha and Stongde monasteries, the villages around Padum, rafting on the Zanskar river, and the extraordinary Phuktal Monastery, built into a cliff cave above a gorge and reached by a walk from the nearest road. A Zanskar trip needs at least 6 or 7 nights, usually from June to September, and stays are simple.

The Chadar trek follows the frozen Zanskar river through a deep gorge in January and February, with nights in tents or caves at temperatures far below freezing. It is one of India's most famous winter adventures. Trekkers must spend several days acclimatising in Leh, pass a medical check and obtain the required permits and insurance before starting. The ice conditions vary each year, so the trek can be shortened or cancelled.

The Markha Valley trek is the most popular summer trek in Ladakh, usually 6 to 8 days through Hemis National Park, with village homestays or camps, river crossings and the crossing of Kongmaru La at about 5,100 metres. It is moderately demanding and best from June to September. Our local partner runs Markha Valley group treks on regular departures.

• Sham Valley trek: an easy 3 to 4-day walk between villages such as Likir, Yangthang and Temisgam, with homestays; a good first trek.
• Snow-leopard treks: in February and March in Hemis National Park around Rumbak, with expert spotters; the chances of a sighting are good but never guaranteed.
• Stok Kangri: once a popular trekking peak near Leh, it has been closed to climbers in recent seasons; check the current status.
• Lamayuru to Chilling, and treks in Zanskar: longer routes for experienced trekkers.

A typical Zanskar trip by road takes 6 to 7 nights from Leh: Leh to Kargil via Lamayuru, Kargil to Padum over Pensi La, one or two days around Padum with Karsha and Phuktal, and the return to Leh. Longer itineraries combine Zanskar with Nubra and Pangong, or continue to Manali via Shinku La. Our local partner runs a 'Discover Zanskar' trip; ask us for details and dates.

Zanskar is remote, with basic hotels and homestays, limited electricity and very little mobile coverage. Roads include long unpaved stretches, and Pensi La can see snow even in summer. In return, you get some of the most dramatic scenery and traditional village life in the Himalaya.

• Acclimatise in Leh for at least two or three days before any trek.
• Choose a registered local operator with experienced guides, cooks and ponies.
• Take insurance that covers trekking at altitude and evacuation.
• Pack proper trekking boots, layers, a good sleeping bag and sun protection.
• Respect village life and carry your rubbish out.

Read our altitude sickness guide and best time to visit Ladakh before you plan.